An Example Itinerary
This is an example of an itinerary I wrote for history podcaster Craig Baird. Check him out on X, Facebook, and more!
Craig Baird Itinerary
Part One: Accommodation
Option 1: Best Western Gatineau
Address; 131 Rue Laurier, Gatineau, Quebec J8X 3W3
Hotel Features- WiFi, a pool, a gym, non-smoking, eco-friendly. Hotel has Ice machines and meeting and conference facilities, but NO complimentary breakfast. Check-in is at 4 pm and check-out is at 11 am.
Advantages: Has a wonderful view of the Ottawa River and of the City of Ottawa. It is close to many attractions. One the Quebec side, The Museum of History is a short walk away- maybe four blocks. Other nearby attractions (within walking distance) include the historical building of Le Régiment du Hull, the Depot Trois Formes, The Empowerment of Local Graffities art wall, the installation Best Sight: the Boat and the Words of Animals, the Maurice Richard monument, and the EB Eddy Digester Tower. The Ottawa side of the River is a 10-minute walk across the Alexandra Bridge; from there, you can access attractions like the Byward Market, the National Gallery of Canada, the Royal Canadian Mint, and more.
Convenience/Restaurants:
- Depanneur Laval (at the corner of Rue Saint-Etienne and Rue Laval)
- St. Hubert (at the corner of Rue Saint-Etienne and Boulevard Maisonneuve)
- Astoria Bistro Botanique on Laurier Street
- Boulangerie Lusa at Rue Wellington and Rue Saint-Redempteur
- McDonalds (Boulevard Maisonneuve)
- Pizza 9 (location at Boulevard Maisonneuve and Rue de Verdun(
- La Bottega Nicastro-Market Café (located on Laurier Street about two blocks from the hotel)
Additional:
- The office of Tourisme Outouais is located a block from the hotel at Laurier Street and Boulevard des Allumettieres.
Option 2: City Centre Best Western
Address: 1274 Carling Avenue, Ottawa, ON K1Z 7K8
Hotel Features: WiFi, Parking, Pool, Fitness Centre, Mobile Key, non-smoking, Bar/Lounge, Electric Car Charging, nominal fee for breakfast, Check-in 4pm/Check-out 11 am.
Advantages: Is centrally located in the city, with the ability to access many points of interest. Diagonal from the hotel on a street corner is an interesting historic Hydro Ottawa substation. Within close walking distance are restaurants, a shopping centre, a grocery store, a hospital, and the Central Experimental Farm, which is home to the Canadian Agricultural & Food Museum.
Convenience/Restaurants:
- Amigos Sports Bar
- MF Foodmart
- Westgate Shopping Centre
- Bowman’s Bar and Grill
Part Two: Attractions
Central Experimental Farm/ Canadian Agriculture & Food Museum
Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM, 7 days a week
Adult Admission- $14.50
Address (Museum): 901 Prince of Wales Drive, Ottawa, ON K2C 3K1
About the Museum:
Unique as the world’s only working farm located in the heart of a capital city, the museum offers the opportunity to visit animals important to important to Canadian agriculture, along with programs and exhibitions that teach Canadians about the food they eat, Canada’s agricultural heritage, and the benefits of agriculture to peoples’ everyday lives. Included in the Farm are:
- Barns and viewing areas, for horses, cattle, small animals, dairy animals, and poultry
- Exhibition facilities
- A Discovery Park
- A Demonstration Kitchen
- A soil lab
- The Grange du Pré children’s farm
Points of Interest outside the main museum spaces:
- Canadensis Botanical Garden- in their words, “a magical botanic place where visitors can enrich their lives with unique learning experiences that excite and stimulate the senses”
- Tropical Greenhouse- built in 1928, houses the Farm’s tropical plant exhibition, free to access, closed on Saturdays
- Fletcher Wildlife Garden: free to access, this garden aims to teach how to create wildlife-friendly habitats and gardens on different properties, and also emphasizes the use of native plants
- Dominium Arboretum- free of charge and open to the public from sunrise to sunset, covers about 26 hectares between Prince of Wales Drive and the Rideau Canal, has a wide variety of trees/shrubs/soil types/moisture levels, popular for things like workout clubs, wedding photos, and people walking their dogs
- The Ornamental Gardens, composed of a number of different gardens and collections, also popular for wedding photos, free of charge
- Numerous historical buildings including the Dominion Observatory, the Horiculture Building no. 74, and the Carpenter’s Shop #98
Additional Information
- Adjacent to the farm/museum are the Civic Hospital, where Princess Margriet of the Netherlands was born during WW2 while her family sheltered in Ottawa, and Commissioner’s Park, home to the Canadian Tulip Festival
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The Diefenbunker: Canada’s Cold War Museum
Address: 3929 Carp Road, Ottawa, ON K0A 1L0
Hours: closed Monday-Tuesday, 10 AM to 4 PM Wednesday-Friday, 10 AM to 3 PM Saturday-Sunday
Admission: $18.50 for a single adult
Commissioned by John Diefenbunker in 1959 amid the tensions of the Cold War, the Diefenbunker was meant to house key government and military personnel in the event of a nuclear attack. It was part of a series of bunkers built across Canada, and eventually became known as the Central Emergency Government Headquarters (CEGHQ Carp). The bunker is 100,000 square feet spread over four levels, and remained in operation alongside CFS Carp until 1994, when it received National Historic Site status. It remained empty until the museum was started in 1997. Today, you can the visit the museum and immerse yourself in the past and explore Canada’s Cold War history.
Beyond the Diefenbunker:
After your visit, drive down Carp Road to the centre of the village of Carp, where you can enjoy lunch and other things at:
- Alice’s Village Café
- Carp Custom Creamery
- Ridge Rock Brewing Company
Alternatively, drive a little farther down Carp Road to where it intersects with Richardson Side Road and enjoy a meal at:
- The Cheshire Cat Pub: This family-owned restaurant has become an Ottawa favourite. It strives to emulate the traditional British pub as well as give a modern take on classic British cuisine. The pub makes a point of engaging local farmers and suppliers as much as possible. The Cheshire Cat Pub is located at 2193 Richardson Side Road, Carp, ON K0A 1L0.
After lunch, drive down Carp Road to where it intersects with Stittsville Main Street, then enjoy a drive through Old Stittsville before you arrive at:
- The Goulbourn Museum: In their own words, the Goulbourn Museum “preserves and interprets material significant to the Goulbourn Township area before, during, and after its incorporation.” The museum is open to the public during the summer months from Thursday-Sunday between 10 AM and 4 PM. In addition, research visits are available by appointment. The museum is located at 2064 Huntley Rd, Stittsville, ON K2S 1B8.
Canada Aviation and Space Museum
Address: 11 Aviation Parkway, Ottawa, ON K1K 2X5
Hours: Thursday- Monday, 9 AM to 5 PM, closed Mondays
Admission: $16.75 for a single adult
Located at Ottawa/Rockcliffe Airport, the museum, located on the former RCAF Station Rockcliffe, started in 1964 as the National Aeronautical Collection, which amalgamated the collections of the National Aviation Museum, The Canadian War Museum, and the RCAF Museum. In 1982, it moved from its WW2-era wooden hangars into a new experimental triangular hangar. In 2006, an additional hangar was opened, meaning that all the aircraft could be stored indoors.
Currently, the Museum is part of Ingenium, a Crown Corporation that is responsible for the Aviation Museum, the Agriculture Museum, and the Science and Technology Museum. The museum also houses 51 Canada Aviation Museum Squadron of the Royal Canadian Air Cadets. The museum’s collection currently includes a wide variety of military and civilian aircraft, the Space Shuttle Endeavour’s Canadarm, and many interactive activities. The museum’s best known exhibit is the largest piece of wreckage from an Avro Arrow Interceptor.
After exploring the museum, why not take to the skies?
Ottawa Aviation Adventures operates out of the Ottawa/Rockcliffe Airport facilities, offering tours of the Ottawa area in vintage biplanes. Prices range from $98 for the 10-25 minute River Tour, to $210 for the 30-35 minute Eco Tour.
Beyond the Museum:
Just down the road from the Aviation Museum is the home of the RCMP’s Musical Ride. You can visit the stables from May to August, Monday to Friday between 9 am and 3:30 pm. Tours are available every half-hour, and there is no need to book ahead if you are by yourself or only with a small group.
Canadian War Museum
Address: 1 Vimy Place, Ottawa, ON K1A 0M8
Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Friday- Wednesday, 9 am to 7 pm Thursdays
Admission: $20 for a single adult
The Canadian War Museum originates in 1880, when it was simply a collection of militia artifacts. Today it is located in Ottawa’s Lebreton Flats neighbourhood, where it has been located since 2005, in a building that when viewed from above brings to mind a military bunker. With approximately 500K visitors annually, the Museum aims to emphasize the Canadian experience of war. This is done through exhibitions like the Canadian Experience Galleries, which detail Canada’s military history from its earliest past to the present day. Other current exhibitions include Memorial Hall, a number of special exhibitions, and the Lebreton Gallery: The Military Technology Collection. The Museum also contains the Military History Research Centre, an extensive collection of research materials documenting Canada’s rich military history.
Fun fact: Look up at the prow of the museum jutting out as you approach, and you’ll see “Lest We Forget/ Je me souviens” spelled out in Morse Code.
Beyond the Museum:
Across the street from the museum is the National Holocaust Monument, which was inaugurated on September 27th, 2017. Dedicated to the Jewish victims and the many other victims of Nazi persecution, the starkness of the monument’s gray stone construction pairs well with the meaningful artistic images to create a powerful reminder of one of history’s greatest evils. Side note: That one “enclosed” space in the monument evokes feelings of isolation and sadness, and I’m pretty sure is also meant to represent a gas chamber/oven. Also, the whole thing looks like a Star of David when viewed from above.
Down the street, you’ll find the Mill Street Brew Pub, which is housed in a historic gristmill. Mill Street uses organic grains in its beers in order to support a healthier ecosystem, and they are committed to crafting great-tasting products.
After Mill Street, why not head across the Portage Bridge and check out Victoria Island, Albert Island, and the Chaudiere Falls? Points of interest include the historic Wilson Carbide Mill (access currently restricted due to an environmental remediation project), the Bronson Channel ruins, Logging and Paper Mill ruins, and the Chaudiere Falls Viewing Area.
Canadian Museum of History
Address: 100 Laurier Street, Gatineau, Quebec K1A 0M8
Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM Friday-Wednesday, 9 AM to 7 PM Thursday
Admission: $23 for a single adult
Originating circa 1856 in Montreal, the Canadian Museum of History- formerly known as the Museum of Civilization- is the country’s most-visited museum. Welcoming over 1.2 million visitors each year, the museum offers exhibitions presented by themselves and other institutions that tell the many stories of Canada’s history, archaeology, and culture. The museum and its Collections building house over 4 million items of artifacts and media, 218,000 of which are available in an online database.
The museum also houses a 500-seat theatre, the 295-seat Ciné+ theatre equipped with a giant 3D screen and a giant dome, and the Canadian Children’s Museum.
Current exhibitions include First Royals of Europe, Canada’s Got Game! Highlights From the Order of Sport Collection, and the permanent Canadian Stamp Collection and the First People’s Hall.
Beyond the Museum:
Just beyond the museum is the E.B. Eddy Digester Tower, which is a Recognized Federal Heritage Building because of historical associations and architectural and environmental values.
Further out from the museum, there is ample parkland for walking, as well as a variety of restaurants and shopping options. The Tourisme Outaouais office is also nearby.
Part 3: The Path of Igor Gouzenko/Ottawa Historical Walk
This journey traces the (assumed) path of Igor Gouzenko, who defected to Canada from the Soviet Embassy in 1945 and started the ball rolling on the Cold War in Canada. This walk will also highlight points of interest on the way.
(Start Location: In front of the Russian Embassy, at the corner of Laurier Avenue East and Charlotte Street)
Our journey starts here, at the Russian Embassy at the corner of Laurier Avenue East and Charlotte Street. It didn’t always look like this; in 1945, it was the site of the manor that had belonged to J. Fred Booth, the son of lumber baron J.R. Booth. The Canadian government expropriated the manor in WW2, originally for use by the Royal Canadian Navy. The site was then given to the Soviets in 1942 to house their delegation. It was this building that 26-year-old GRU officer and cipher clerk Igor Gouzenko walked out of on September 5th, 1945, carrying many documents stuffed into his pockets and under his clothes.
(Head down Charlotte Street to where it intersects with Rideau Street.)
Gouzenko’s defection has been prompted by his recall to the USSR, which he had originally informed of in September 1944. This reassignment had been prompted mainly by concerns from superiors that Gouzenko was in an unusually advantageous position for potentially compromising Soviet espionage activities. Gouzenko’s superior officer, Zabotin, postponed Gouzenko’s departure by insisting that his replacement had first arrived and was trained. That replacement arrived in July 1945. Originally, Gouzenko was supposed to leave in mid-October; ultimately, he was told his last day would be September 5th, 1945. He knew he had to act fast.
That Gouzenko could leave the embassy compound at all was a miracle; embassy staff were normally required to live on the compound. However, thanks to annoyance caused by their at-the-time newborn son, Gouzenko and his family were allowed to rent an apartment outside the compound in late 1943/early 1944.
By this point, you’ve reached the corner of Charlotte and Rideau. Right here, we need to tell you that we don’t know Gouzenko's exact route. We’ve planned this walk assuming that Gouzenko took this route so that he would get lost in the crowd on Rideau Street.
On the corner of Rideau and Charlotte is Wallis House. Originally built to house a hospital, it also served as a Catholic seminary until 1943, when it was taken over by the military and used to house members of the Women’s Royal Naval Service, which is the function it likely still had when Gouzenko walked by it in 1945. The military kept using it for awhile before it eventually sat vacant. After later being threatened with demolition, it was purchased, restored, and turned into high-end condominiums.
(Turn left and continue down Rideau Street)
When you get just past the intersection of Rideau and Friel Streets, look towards a place that’s now called Chef Ric’s. In 1945, Gouzenko would have seen the Rideau Bakery, which had opened in the 1930s. A long-time Ottawa institution, the Rideau Bakery had been open for 90 years since it closed in 2019.
Right across and a little up from there, you’ll find the Rideau branch of the Ottawa Public Library. The oldest bilingual library in North America, its main building was completed in 1933 and has only had a handful of major renovations since then.
Continue down Rideau Street. You’ll see such Ottawa landmarks as the Bytowne Cinema; for Gouzenko, things would have looked different. (Note: if you need a quick bite, stop in at Korean restaurant Food Mood at 178B Rideau Street.) You start to see elements of what Gouzenko might have seen when you get closer to the Rideau Centre; many historic facades have been preserved.
Going beyond the Rideau Centre and crossing Sussex Drive brings you to the vicinity of the Chateau Laurier, which would have been a familiar sight to Gouzenko, as he had lived there when he first came to Canada. Across from the hotel is the current home of the Canadian Senate, but it was the city’s main train station back then.
Cross over to the National War Memorial and take in the monument and the statues of historical figures around it. After this, cross over to the other side, where Little Victories Coffee Roasters is located. Next to the impressive historic façade of that building—probably in that little tan building—is the former location of the Ottawa Journal.
Gouzenko showed up at the paper’s offices around 9 p.m. The editor struggled to understand Gouzenko’s frantic communication and thick accent, so he directed him to the RCMP headquarters nearby.
Gouzenko, who was worried about spies in the RCMP, instead went directly to the Department of Justic on Wellington Street, likely following the same route down Wellington Street West that we’re following now. He would have seen many of the same buildings, among them the Prime Minister’s Office, Parliament Hill, the former US Embassy, and others, finally reaching the Justice Building at 249 Wellington. However, as the building was closed for the night, Gouzenko felt he has no choice but to return home.
We can only guess Gouzenko’s thoughts as he likely walked up either Kent Street or Lyon Street towards his apartment at 511 Somerset, on the corner with Lyon. The next few days would see him return to the Justice Department and the Ottawa Journal, this time with his family, to try and convince the government to take action. At one point, he thought he was being disregarded; he had no idea that people were already moving behind the scenes as they realized what was happening.
(When you reach Lyon & Somerset, cross over to Dundonald Park)
This is our final stop, Dundonald Park. Find the historical plaques, read them, then look up and across the street at the apartment building. Whether it was in his own apartment (upper right) or hiding at the neighbours across the hall when the Soviets broke in and ransacked his apartment (upper left), a man named Igor Gouzenko once lived here- a man whose actions marked the beginning of the Cold War in Canada.
